For many manufacturers, it can be summed up as a lyric of Luo Dayou: that is something I can't understand. Professional manufacturers rely on "intuition" (tube + lamp) to make lights, I think it is also drunk. . . Today, we look at these wonderful things from the perspective of glare. What needs to be stated is that this is definitely not the most amazing.
The glare of the luminaire, many designers do not understand how to avoid, and how to choose a true anti-glare luminaire.
Let us first look at, under what circumstances, the human eye will feel "glare"?
Figure: The normal eyesight range of the human eye is 30° above the head-up to 60° below, and the glare in this range is glare.
Figure: As long as the light emitted by the luminaire is controlled within a cut-off angle of >30°, it can be said that the luminaire is anti-glare.
Of course, if you want to run under the lamp and look up at the lamp, then...
Some people say: "The hidden lamps are anti-glare". In fact, the deep hidden only solves the problem of glare directly from the light source.
It is very simple to cut off the light directly from the light source, and you know all about simple geometry. Like the light fixture on the right side of the picture above, it is a chestnut that is only hidden deep and has no reflector inside. (I hide my possession and hide it, so the light is hidden... Of course, for the narrow use of the lamp cup In the case of beam spotlights, this is not a good one, but it is still possible.)
In fact, the inferior reflector shape and curvature will cause the secondary reflected light to enter the field of view. Like the edge of the above figure, the edge of the reflector is almost vertical and down, basically the chestnuts that meet the above-mentioned strong reflection glare~ (you must have encountered the demand for bright is the wonderful customers who want the lamps themselves to shine! This is also excellent for them. ~~)
So there are some pursuits, but also smart, add an anti-glare circle to block this secondary reflection. For example, on the right side of the above picture, it is actually to admit that the reflector can't do the best, but the passive anti-glare chestnut ~ (at least try hard... pay tribute to their efforts!)
Figure: A real good reflector, it is anti-glare. Primary and secondary light are within the cut-off range and no anti-glare ring is required.
But some people say: the matte reflector is anti-glare!
I said: That is the source of glare...
Figure: Scrub reflector, in fact, is to break the light, the relative reflection of light in some directions is relatively reduced, but will cause the secondary reflected light to enter the field of view.
Others said that "matte / milky white light surface can prevent glare", the same reason ~ ~
Figure: Milky white/matte panel with a small cut-off angle and a large amount of light entering the field of view.
The popular panel lights are actually going in such a direction.
There are also wonderful practices, such as scrubbing a circle in the middle... really naive
Of course, the above is a downlight with a wide beam angle, which requires the concept of a 30° cut-off angle.
However, if it is a spotlight with a small beam angle, the reflector forms a narrow-angle beam called the "main spot." The light emitted directly by the light source forms a "side spot."
Sometimes you don't want the side spot too big, you need to add an anti-glare ring to block it.
Finally, three chestnuts are spotted:
1. The main and auxiliary spots are very clear:
2, the main and auxiliary light spots have a good transition:
3. There is no side spot at all:
Of course, it is not feasible to rely on the reflector to achieve no side spot at all. Generally, the lens is used:
Now, the question is: Which lens technology is strong? Which is the optical design?
After reading, some people said: throwing away the brightness contrast, glare is a rogue!
I said: It is a fool to leave the book bag. Typical application scenarios for downlights, you go looking for, where is the background brightness is very high?
Electric Tea Kettle:
Quickly brew the perfect
cup of tea or make pour over coffee right at the table with the Electric Tea
Kettle. With 1500 watts, this Electric Kettle boils water faster than a
microwave, and is safer to use than a stovetop kettle because it automatically
turns off when the water reaches a boil. Serving at the table is no problem as
the kettle lifts off the base without the cord. Additional features include two
water level windows and a pull-lid to make filling and serving easy.
Features:
-
Thermostat Control – Having
a thermostat control allows the kettle to [know" when to shut off. This will
prevent damage to the heating element and is an important feature in all modern
styles.
-
Auto shut off/Boil Dry Protection/Fuse –
these are three features that are great for protecting the safety of users as
well as extending the life of the electric kettle. The fuse and boil dry
protection shut the kettle off if the water gets down below a certain level or
if it`s left on for an extended period of time, It doesn`t burn up the kettle.
-
Colors and Designs – Electric kettles
come in all shapes, sizes and colors. Finding one that will fit with the
kitchen design is actually pretty easy. Finding one that matches and that
has the features you`re looking for can be a bit harder, but with all the
choices available and the newer models on the market today, you will be able to
find the perfect electric kettle for your kitchen.
-
Savety
in Electric- the heating element is
typically fully enclosed, with a power rating of 2–3 kW at 220V. In
countries with 110V mains electricity, kettles may be less powerful (1–1.5 kW)
to avoid drawing too much current and requiring a very thick supply wire.
Application:
Heat
the tea thoroughly
Bottle
the water/beer
Boil
water
Electric Tea Kettle
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